We had a great time when we drove Route 66 a few years ago, So when I saw the special on PBS about the first trans-continental automobile trip taken by Horatio Nelson Jackson in 1903, we thought it might be a fun trip to follow Horatio’s route across America. The same PBS program also told of the first trans-continental highway system called the Lincoln Highway. The two routes overlaid each other from Ohio to Utah. On the East end of the route, Horatio went across New York State and the Lincoln Highway crossed Pennsylvania. On the West end, the Lincoln route went across the center of Nevada and California on what is now U S route 50. Horatio’s route took him from San Francisco to the northeast corner of California, then across to Ontario, Oregon then across Idaho to meet the route of the Lincoln Highway near Evanston, Wyoming.
Since Horatio’s route would take us through Boise, we decided to do the western portion of both routes now and then at some future date; we could do the trip to the east.
We started the trip by driving to Utah where we made a stop to see Gage and Kinsey’s new home. Of course the highlight was to see the boys and their folks, but it is a nice home. The house is small, but well laid out. Kinsey has already done some nice decorating. With a full-unfinished basement, they will have plenty of room to grow.
We spent the night in Layton and started our trip on the Lincoln Highway. Our first stop was to see what remains of the old Saltair resort – not much. We took a picture of it and the old Magna smelter that is just to the south. I recalled the days when Saltair had a giant roller coaster that was a real thrill to ride and a large ballroom where all the famous Big Bands came to play. That day is certainly far gone.
When we turned off the freeway towards Tooele, Diane saw the signs for the Benson Grist Mill. I thought it would be out by Grantsville and didn’t want to stop, but it turnout to be just a block or two west of the highway, so we made a stop. Apostle Ezra T. Benson, who was sent by Brigham Young to help develop the area west of Salt Lake, originally built the mill in 1854. The site was not supposed to open for a while, but the lady in the office said she would unlock the buildings for us even though there were no guides there yet. We wandered up and down the three floors of the old mill and found it very interesting and the signs informative. There is no way that they are going to restore the old mill so that it can actually function, so next door they have built a small mill so that people will be able to see how a grist mill actually works. We got a brief demonstration when one of the workers turned the waterwheel by hand. We visited the blacksmith shop, the barn and a few old log homes that they had on the site. Diane also got to grind a little wheat on a small hand grist mill, called a quern, that they had in the Visitor Center. We had a great time and would recommend it to anyone who was in the area. Kids from six on up would really enjoy it.
Since we could not actually follow the Lincoln highway across Utah because it crossed through the Dugway Proving Ground, we headed south to Route 50 at Delta, Utah. From there we headed west across the dry Sevier Lake and intersected with the actual Lincoln route at Ely, Nevada.
Just outside Ely, we wandered around for an hour looking for the Ruth Copper Mine pit, which is supposedly the largest pit in the world. All we saw was a lot of mine tailings, but not a large pit. It is not like Bingham where there is one very large pit. From there we headed for Eureka to spend the night. The drive was quite interesting. From the Nevada board to Eureka, we crossed over four major summits. With a population of 1,500, there was not a lot to do, but we did have a nice dinner.
The next day found us doing the same climbing over summits and dropping into long valleys as we had done the day before. There are state road signs stating that this is “The Loneliest Road in America.” When we got to Austin, Diane noticed a drugstore that advertized having an old fashioned soda fountain, so we stopped and went in. I had a milkshake and Diane had a hot fudge sundae. It was a fun stop. Not far down the road I saw a tree with things hanging from the branches. Diane had read about it and said they were shoes that people threw into the tree. Sure enough, when we got closer you could see hundreds of shoes hanging from the branches.
Just before we got to Fallon we were winding around a dry lake and noticed a couple of girls placing rocks on the far side of the borrow pit. We then noticed that there was lettering all along the side of the road with all sorts of messages. The writing had to go for over a mile. At the same time we saw a large sand dune that looked like it had ants crawling all over it. They were ATV’s crisscrossing the dune. At the base of the dune, there had to be well over a hundred campers parked.
At Fallon we visited the Pioneer museum. It had some fun stuff displayed. Diane took special note of the quilts and even had to stop and sew a few stitches in the display room. They had one of the nicest sleds I have ever seen – it was very well preserved. They had a lot of old equipment and a few antique cars. We did not stay long, but we really enjoyed the displays.
Our next stop was Virginia City which is an old mining town still getting rich from all the tourists in town. We took a 20-minute tour of the town in a cart pulled by a tractor. Back in its “heyday” it must have been quite the place with a number of mansions and more saloons than you could count. The cemetery was interesting because every group of people had their own section. If you were a Catholic fireman of Irish decent who belonged to the Odd Fellows, They would have had a major problem figuring out where you should be buried.
Our reservation for that night was in Carson City where we arrived about 3 o’clock in the afternoon, so we decided to see a movie. We saw Angels & Demons and really enjoyed it. After the movie, we drove around town to see the state buildings.
On Saturday we headed out of Carson City over the mountain to Lake Tahoe. I was sure glad we were going west – the traffic coming up was bumper-to-bumper. As we examined the route we would be taking to cross California, we realized that we would not be very far from where Michelle and Masonga lived. We had to call Neil to get a phone number. Then we called Michelle to see if they would be home. They had an appointment, but if we hurried we would have time for a short visit. We got the instructions on how to get to their house, which included: “Call when you get close and I’ll come out to the road to meet you.” (I didn’t realize you could live that far out in the sticks in California, but they do.) We had a great time visiting with Michelle and Masonga and getting to see their cute little boys and oh, having a great lunch which Masonga cooked.
After lunch we headed off for San Francisco. We had planed on eating at the Tadich Grill for dinner, but since it had been more than 10 years since we were in San Francisco we wondered if there might be some better places to eat. So who better to ask than our good friends the Stewarts who we knew would be able to recommend the best places in town? We gave them a call and after a couple of calls back from them, we had a great list to chose from.
My hip was really giving me fits, so there was no way I was going to do much walking. So we stopped by the hotel to see if we could check in early, but they said the room would not be cleaned until 4 o’clock, so we drove around town. Diane had her head buried in the map trying to figure out where we were. I said I could get around without the map and for her to watch the sights. We checked out the parking at a couple of places to eat. We then drove along The Embarcadero past all the wharf area. It was fun to see all of the people and the sights. By then it was time to check into the hotel.
We decided that the easiest place to park was near Tadich’s, so in spite of all the good recommendations from the Stewarts, we drove to the Tadich Gill and had a great dinner. Our timing was perfect. We had to sit at the bar, which was fine, but within ten minutes the place was packed and people were standing all around waiting for seating. As we got up to leave, I asked the people behind us how much they were willing to pay us for our seats. They asked if the food was good and Diane said that I had been coming there for 40 years. They then asked where we were from and I said Idaho. They said that’s where they were from too.
After dinner we drove over to Ghirardelli’s for desert. We were very lucky and found a parking place right by Ghirardelli’s. We each ordered a sundae and then waddled back to the car and drove back to the hotel. By the way, the view from our room was spectacular. We could see the Golden Gate bridge and a lot of the bay. Too bad it was a little foggy, but we enjoyed the view just the same.
When we reached San Francisco, we had completed the Lincoln Highway portion of our trip. Now it was time to start the Horatio’s part of the trip. The next day we took the freeway to Sacramento and could not imagine what the route must have been like in 1903. From Sacramento we headed north passing rice fields and a variety of orchards. At Oroville we headed into the mountains. The scenery was great, the road was a challenge. I was very surprised at how courteous the drivers were. Any time I came up on someone, they would pull over at the next turn out.
As we approached the Oregon border the landscape started to look like the area between Boise and Mountain Home. At the time we did not realize that this would be the terrain for the next 300 miles.
We spent the night at Lakeview Oregon. At the motel we noticed that a number of the parking stalls had motorcycles in them. The place where we ate dinner was on the corner of the highway intersection and we saw a number on motorcycles passing by. After dinner we drove to the service station to fill-up and asked the attendant about a motorcycle that had just pulled away. It had a wire cage mounted behind the driver. We were told that there were two dogs in the cage wearing Oregon Duck sweaters. There was a piece of Plexiglas on the front of the cage to break the wind. As we were filling up a couple of motorcycles pulled in and we asked the attendant how many motorcycles usually stopped at the station. He said that on an average summer day he had about 250 motorcycles stop for gas.
We circled town twice to finish listening to an audiotape. With nothing else to do in town we went back to our room and watched the movie Taken that I had copied to the computer.
The next morning we started across southern Oregon. Whoever labeled highway 50 in Nevada as “The Loneliest Highway in America” had obviously not driven across southern Oregon. Other than a few cars that we passed there were next to no signs of civilization. Even the lakebeds were dry. Quite to our surprise, when we thought we were in the middle of nowhere, the phone rang and it was Jason, Chris, Ethan and Fiona singing Happy Birthday to me. The connection only lasted a couple of minutes, but for the life of me I can’t imagine where the signal came from.
We hit the freeway at Ontario, OR and quickly drove the rest of the way home. As I reflected on the day’s journey once again it was beyond my imagination how Horatio was able to survive the trip across this no-man’s land.